DIY Home Staging Tips

Say Hello to My Read of the Week

Wednesday, August 01, 2012

Ordinarily I don’t like being called a stickler, a vigilante, or an obsessive. But when the accusation puts me in the company of Ms Lynne Truss, I consider it a compliment.

Also ordinarily, I do not write book reviews, but Centsational Girl is hosting a linky asking for book recommendations, so I am adding this post to the party.

Lynne Truss is the British author of a book with the improbable title of Eats, Shoots & Leaves. If it sounds familiar, that’s because the book’s been around since 2002. She's a self-professed stickler for proper punctuation, who obsesses over misplaced commas, and toys with the idea of forming a party of vigilantes to remove superfluous apostrophes from green grocers' signs and movie marquees.

Who would have guessed then -- or even now -- that a book whose subject is punctuation and the abuses it suffers in contemporary England would be so entertaining? Not most of us, and not the author either. But it’s become a best seller with over three million copies in print.

Does a book that reviews the when and where of placing dashes, hyphens, colons, apostrophes and semicolons, sound boring?

Trust me, it’s not. I hung on every word and re-read some sentences for the sheer pleasure of savoring the style and content. Call me crazy, but first listen to Ms Truss talking about the exclamation mark.

Ever since it came along, grammarians have warned us to be wary of the exclamation mark, mainly because even when we try to muffle it with brackets (!), it still shouts, flashes like neon, and jumps up and down. In the family of punctuation, where the full stop (what we call the period in this country) is daddy and the comma is mummy, and the semicolon quietly practices the piano with crossed hands, the exclamation mark is the big attention-deficit brother who gets over-excited and breaks things and laughs too loudly.

Or what she has to say about the two ways a Biblical quote is punctuated:

Now, huge doctrinal differences hang on the placing of this comma. The first version, which is how Protestants interpret the passage (Luke xxiii, 43) lightly skips over the whole business of Purgatory and takes the crucified thief straight to heaven with Our Lord. The second promises Paradise at some later date (to be confirmed, as it were) and leaves Purgatory nicely in the picture for the Catholics, who believe in it.

In this sample, she provides proof of the power that punctuation holds, and how it can change the meaning of a simple sentence:

A woman, without her man, is nothing.
A woman: without her, man is nothing.

While Ms Truss is a stickler for punctuation, she is not a strict grammar snob. She’s not averse to breaking the rules of good writing for the sake of clarity. So, relax. She’s not going to hound you about using the Queen’s English, or sticking to obsolete restrictions from the last century.

Although I learned some new rules and tips about how punctuating properly can enhance the clarity and rhythm of my writing, there’s not much I can do about my envy of Ms Truss’s writing talent. There is no way I could train myself to write with such acerbic wit, such frisky spirit, such off-the-wall vocabulary.

The Wrap: Eats, Shoots & Leaves is a brisk read, casual, personal, funny, and spiced with just enough historical trivia and literary quotes to make it meaty.

If you are a writer (and if you blog, you are) and you haven’t put your hands on Eats, Shoots & Leaves yet, please add it to your must-read list. My local library had two copies of it -– always a good sign that it’s a book worth reading.

Even if it doesn’t change the way you punctuate, you’ll have spent a few hours (it’s only 200 cute pages) in the company of a delightful individual.

A Simple Way to Get Feedback from People Who Tour Your Home

Monday, July 30, 2012

Hey, homesellers. Are you sick of people coming to look at your house and then never hearing from them again?

Do you wonder why they didn't make an offer? Do you question what they liked? Do you want to know what bothered them? What they thought of the price? The neighborhood? The floor plan? Your decor?

Whenever I have a house for sale, I want feedback. It’s never too late to tweak the staging, add a simple upgrade, get rid of a minor problem, or …dare I say it… lower the price.

Even when working with a Realtor and doing all the right homework (like reading my eBooks), without feedback, you’re guessing how the market sees your home.

Not everyone who views your home will tell his real estate agent what he really thought about your home. If a client acts disinterested, a good agent will probe for reasons, because a good agent wants to know what’s important to her client.

But some people feel bad saying negative things, or they may not understand fully what made them react to your home the way they did. So, not all feedback is helpful or complete.

Translate the comments

If a potential home buyer says, “The house is nice, but …” ...

But they don’t like the carpeting, or the kitchen is too small, or the appliances have to go, or they’re not crazy about the neighborhood.

What they are really saying is the house is overpriced.

Their comments mean they are seeing bigger kitchens, or better flooring, or newer appliances, or nicer neighborhoods for the same price. Without choosing the exact phrasing, they are saying that they know they can get more for their money.

Buyers typically look at similar homes in
similar neighborhoods, at a similar price point.
This means you need to know your
competition to arrive at a fair asking price.

Perceived value

Staging is one way to increase the perceived value of your home. Another way is pricing it correctly. Getting feedback will help you in both cases.

Your listing agent will help you set your asking price. There are objective methods to arrive at fair market value, but fair market value also depends on how the market responds to your home. That's where feedback comes in handy.

Here is how one Realtor makes it easy to tune into what home buyers are saying about a listing.

She simply sends out a questionnaire to every real estate agent who shows the property. She asks them to email or query the client and get quick answers to these five multiple-choice questions. The first one is, how would you rate the home's curb appeal? Excellent, good, fair, or poor?

Some homes have curb appeal on two sides.
This home for sale in Florida on the
Intracoastal Waterway needs
to look good from front and back.

This questionnaire also asks "How did the home's interior look to you?" For options, they can check: very comfortable and stylish, or clean and organized, or average, or needs improvement.

The next question is, " Are there parts of the home that need improving or updating?" And the options are: no improvements needed, or some exterior improvements needed, or some interior improvements needed, or appliances need updating or upgrading.

A home in a subdivision is bound to be
compared to the other homes in the same
(and nearby) subdivisions. A seller needs
to match or beat these competing homes

The next query is, "How is the home priced compared to other homes?" Choices are: price is very appealing, or price seems fair, or home is somewhat overpriced, or the home is substantially overpriced.

A charming entrance is the beginning of what
could become a purchase offer.
Knowing how buyers respond to your
home can help you fine-tune your property.

Finally, the questionnaire gets to the all-important, "Are you considering making an offer on this home? They can check: undecided, yes, or no.

Get the Facts

It takes less than a minute to get answers to these questions. I encourage you to share this idea with your Realtor, so you’ll be on your way to knowing what’s good about your property and what might need some attention.

Fix your home to get the best possible grades from potential buyers. Start now by downloading my eBook, DIY Home Staging Tips to Sell Your Home Fast and For Top Dollar.

How to Stage a Fireplace For Summer

Monday, July 23, 2012

What better way to show off a fireplace
in summer than filling it with mirrors,
the way Eddie Ross has done?

Most home buyers are drawn to a fireplace like moths to a flame. But in hot weather, a fireplace doesn't have all the magnetism it does on a snowy winter day.

In the summertime, all your rooms should feel cool and refreshing.
Feng shui experts say that a fireplace makes a room “hot” because it represents the “fire element,” and that an empty, unused fireplace represents lifeless or drained energy.

Even if you don't know beans about feng shui, you can't deny that there’s nothing appealing about an empty fireplace, no matter what the season.

It’s a black hole in one wall. It looks like something’s missing or not working.

Are there simple ways to showcase your fireplace without suggesting heat? Yes. Here's how.

Whether you're decorating in a coastal style or not,

you can't go wrong with an oversized clamshell,

either empty or filled with shells or plants.

Real or faux succulents or a fern would add a summery

touch. Photo: Ali Wentworth via Completely Coastal.

A mirror in front of the firebox brightens any space,

and a round one like this adds some essential curves

to a room with so many stripes and squares.

Photo: Porch Light Interiors

If you are going to have logs in your fireplace in

summer, add some hardware like a handsome grate

or something like these anchor-themed andirons.

Photo: Traditional Home

More Summer Staging Tips

Keep animal prints packed away during warm months. No furry pillows allowed until autumn.

In summer, flowers and plants make more sense than candles in the firebox.

Keep your staging colors on the cool side of the palette. When in doubt, concentrate on white for a refreshing summer color scheme.

Accessorize with glass and colorful ceramics rather than heavy crockery and earthenware.

Make sure your firebox is clean, even if it is hidden behind a screen. Buyers will look inside.

Your Realtor should indicate that your fireplace is a working fireplace if it is functional. I think it's legit to stage a fireplace that is not functional, as long as the MLS listing gives the true facts.

Need more ideas for fireplace staging? Visit my Pinterest board, Fireplaces Off-Season.

If you download my eBook, DIY Home Staging Tips to Sell Your Home Fast and For Top Dollar, you can start staging your home for market today. You'll see how easy it is to create the look and feel buyers really want in a home.

The Do's and Don'ts of Whiz Bang Home Staging

Monday, July 09, 2012

Any size mirror adds an extra dimension to
a room, but big ones like this one really
earn their keep. DreamyWhites blog.

You say you're getting your home ready for market? Or your home has been on the market and you're not getting offers?

Let's look at staging solutions that work for any home, the solutions that really make a difference.

Prioritize

Focus on the kitchen and baths.

Concentrate your time and money on making these rooms beautiful.

Kitchens and baths cost more money to remodel than other rooms, so if yours are outdated, compensate with extra cleanliness and extra décor luxuries.

Otherwise, you can expect buyers to use obsolete fixtures and appliances as bargaining chips during negotiations.

If you are really motivated, your best bet might be to bite the bullet, and invest in new kitchen appliances and bath fixtures.

Reflect light

Place a mirror in every room. A mirror is one of your best staging props. One mirror can sell a room, because it will fill an empty space, or brighten a drab corner, or increase the apparent size of a room.

Don’t limit mirrors to just baths and bedrooms. Foyers, hallways, and even kitchens can sport mirrors. For what they cost, they are excellent investment pieces that you can take with you when your home sells.

One large plant in this room is all it took to
take the hard edge off the
simple color scheme and overly
modern vibe. Henry Brown Interiors.

Freshen Rooms

Please include greenery in every room. Do you have a live plant, some cut foliage, or a silk plant or flowers in each room? Get rid of small house plants, and bring in the large and lovely stuff that impresses people, and brings a room to life. Today's quality faux plants and flowers are not your mother's plastic "cemetery" flowers.

Pretty up storage areas

Stage all closets and inside all cabinets. Yes, buyers do look in these areas. If they are crowded, sloppy, or ugly, that’s the feeling that buyers walk away with. A well-staged closet is organized, clean, and even scant.

Storage areas like these are your opportunity to suggest the lifestyle any home buyer wants to step into. Examples: A colorful hatbox on your closet’s top shelf, some gourmet foods in your pantry, or some beautiful toiletries in your bath vanity.

Freshly painted trim makes a room
come to life and look new again.

Add “jewelry”

Make sure that trim paint is fresh or very clean. When the woodwork around doors and windows, the baseboards, and any crown molding is newly painted (or looks that way), your rooms sparkle.

Savvy buyers know that painting trim is time-consuming, tedious, and requires more skill than painting walls.

They don’t want to do it themselves, and they don’t want to pay to have it done.

Get out your magic eraser before deciding whether or not your trim work needs painting. Clean it up, touch it up, or else repaint it.

Here’s what not to do

People are curious so don’t display family photos. Decorating with pictures of yourself and your family and friends is distracting, and takes the buyer’s eye and mind off your home’s best features. You’ll be ahead of the game if you don’t use any artwork with a face.

Get up to speed. Decorating with outdated colors makes your home feel stuck in time and unloved. Concentrate on the colors that look new and modern. An old home painted in today’s trendy colors rates better than one done in the mauves and forest greens of the ’80s, the pinky beiges of the ’90s, or the browns of the '00’s. Contemporary décor suggests that your home’s infrastructure – the plumbing, heating and cooling, electrical systems, foundation, and roofing – are all up-to-date as well.

Empty is good. Minimalism is good. Resist the temptation to fill every space on bookshelves, counters, and tabletops. Leaving some spaces open is pleasing and restful to the eye. It’s breathing room, and gives the impression that there is plenty of room for everything in your home.

Aromas matter. Big time. You can't ignore the importance of scent. You may be accustomed to the everyday aromas of your home, but people touring your home will pick up the scent of the litter box that wasn’t cleaned, the basement where mildew is a problem, or the laundry room that smells like old shoes.

Bring in a good friend or your Realtor, to sniff test your entire home, and give you an honest opinion.

Do not fear off-white walls. They are less likely
than colors to be deal-breakers. Some blues
add life to this room, but buyers know they
have a clean slate to start with. Photo: BHG.

Be generic. You don't need all your spaces to make a statement. Don’t decorate to please yourself. Decorate to please most people. Generic doesn't have to be boring. Neutrals and simplicity can be beautiful on their own. Count on a variety of textures and large props to be the finishing touches of your decor.

Get the look, get the book

When you are choosing paints colors and decorating styles, it helps to know the likely demongraphics of your buyers. Listen to your Realtor to determine the kind of people who are your target market. And follow the advice I give in my $4.99 eBook, DIY Home Staging Tips to Sell Your Home Fast and For Top Dollar. You’ll learn all the tricks and techniques that make your home the one your kind of buyers are looking for.

If you want to sell your home fast, and you want to pull as much money from the sale as possible, review these do’s and don’ts. The real estate market might be crowded, but it doesn’t take major renovations and expensive decorating to make your home stand out from the competition.

Why Cyan Could Be Your Go-To Color For Staging

Monday, June 25, 2012

Confused about what colors are best for staging your home? Let's get some basics down.

The best home staging color schemes are built around three colors.

The first color is a neutral background one, something that anyone could love.

The second one is an accessory color that closely coordinates with the first. It's either in the same color family, or the same tonality.

The third is an accent color that doesn't have too much drama of its own. It's usually a more intense color, but not too distracting.

Ideally, these same three colors will echo through your home if it is on the market. This kind of planning makes your home look more contemporary, organized, turn-key, and -- most important -- spacious.

Cyan works in any of these roles.

What is cyan?

Cyan is a new word to me. If it’s new to you, let me introduce you. Cyan is the color built from equal amounts of blue and green.

If you thought that color was aqua, or teal, or turquoise, or aquamarine, or even electric blue, you’re right. But technically, cyan is the word that printers and graphic artists use for the blue/green pigment.

In home decor, and particularly home staging, cyan is an out-and-out winner. Especially the paler versions. Because dreamy, soothing, yet lively, cyan is one of those people-pleasing tones that you can count on to offend no one.

While pinks can be girly, and reds be too bold, and browns too iffy, the color cyan has a personality, like yellows, that generally makes people feel good.

One reason is that it’s clean. So, cyan is a perfect color for baths or kitchens.

Cyan looks contemporary because it hasn’t come into and gone out of the trend cycle.

Cyan in clear shades reflects light, and light reflection makes spaces look larger.

Many ways

Here are some examples of the magic that cyan can add to your home.

You can stage any tablescape, countertop or
bookshelf around a monochromatic color
scheme for a harmonious look. Cyan
ties these elements on this shelf together.

An otherwise standard living room, sparsely
furnished, looks striking because
of the interesting choice of paint color.
For staging, this is as dark a wall
paint as you want. Photo: David Knox

The dishware and glassware in the cabinets
are cyan, and even though the
wall-hung dishes are classic blue and white,
it all works together. Photo: BHG.

Cyan tile is always popular, in both baths
and kitchens. Cyan combines well with
many colors, including warm yellows,
cool blues, and all greys. Photo: BHG

How will you use cyan?

Think about adding cyan to your color palette. It could be your soothing neutral wall color. It could be your complementary secondary neutral color for your upholstery, bedding, window treatments, or painted furniture. It could be your friendly accent color for books, lamps, art, pillows, or other props.

I hope these examples will lead you on a search of your home to discover what you may already own that is the color of cyan.

If you decide to paint, you might like Sherwin Williams's Jetstream, or Glidden's Skywatch. Both Krylon and Rust-Oleum offer spray paints in this family as well.

You can get more advice on choosing colors for home staging, plus help with other decisions you'll be making while you stage your own home. You can download my eBook now for just $4.99, and have this help at your fingertips. Home staging's easy when you know the tricks and techniques I teach you.

Thrifty Decor: How to Give Rooms a Fresh Look with Greenery

Monday, June 18, 2012

Greenery is a big deal. It's pretty much essential in every room of the staged home.

I’ve blogged often about the reasons I prefer silk plants and silk flowers.

Silks are especially helpful if the home you're selling is unoccupied, because they look beautiful without any attention.

But, if you are living in the home you're selling, and you have a yard or garden, it seems a shame not to spruce up your staged home with the real stuff.

Go Green

Rather than traditional floral arrangements, I prefer simple arrangements of greenery for staging. Here are four reasons why.

One. Greenery lasts longer than flowers. It’s less likely to wilt, discolor, or drop pollen. In other words, it will save you time and trouble.

Two. Foliage is less distracting –- and that’s important in a staged space. You want buyers to notice the persuasive selling points of your home rather than a bunch of blooms that take over the room.

Three. Natural greenery goes with any interior color scheme. While you may not have enough of the perfect color blossoms to carry you through the summer selling season, there’s always something green growing.

Four. Green leaves look refreshing. I love flowers, I have my own cutting garden, and I keep fresh cut flowers in the house from spring until fall, but when it comes to adding a living, vegetal quality to a room, nothing beats well-groomed greenery –- either a plant or a simple cluster or foliage.

Almost any plant gives you something to work with.
This bud vase holds the strappy leaves of daylily plants,
and the glass pitcher above
holds Euonymous clippings from landscape pruning.

The container

To make that simple cluster of greens extra refreshing and upbeat, I like glass containers. Nothing matches the clean impression that glass gives. And they won't steal the show from the arrangement itself.

My advice is to use real glass, not plastic. Real glass looks clearer and reflects light the way plastic doesn’t. Crystal is good too, but I always discourage people from displaying anything too valuable in a home for sale.

Whether it's that spa-like vibe you want in bath or bedroom, that spotlessly clean feeling in a kitchen, that sophisticated mood in the living room, or that uncluttered sensation in the foyer, glass is your go-to floral container. Glass vases will never clash with a room's color scheme.

Here are some pointers to make your greenery in glass even more successful as props in a staged room.

Be sure to clean your glass until it glistens. Scrub it with a magic eraser, rinse it well, and dry it with a microfiber cloth to remove spots and stains.

Here's another tip: Fill the container only half full. People feel good when they see the surface of water. It’s a flat and level surface, so it’s grounding. Clear water builds trust; it sends a subtle message of transparency.

As for the greenery, choose only unblemished specimens. Since, without flowers, there won't be a riot of color and textures, each stem, leaf, or blade of grass should be as near to perfect as you can manage.

These branches of Photina I cut from a hedge on the edge of my yard didn't look
like the sole makings of a striking arrangement, until I removed the leaves.

These are the same Photina branches. Don't be afraid to remove parts of plants
to focus exclusively on more interesting parts. A fishbowl makes an ideal container.

No yard or garden of your own? No problem. Most florists will sell assorted greenery like ferns and single stems of tropical plants. If you regularly buy floral bouquets for your home, remember to save the greenery after the roses or lilies or daisies have lived their lives.
Be bold. Try placing one leaf from an elephant's ear plant or a branch of long needle pine in a glass vessel. Trust me. It will look downright elegant.

Get the look, get the book

You can stage your home on a shoestring and you can do it yourself! I show you how in my eBook, DIY Home Staging Tips to Sell Your Home Fast and For Top Dollar. Download it now and start staging today. Every home is staged, whether intentional or not. Stage yours to win a buyer!

The Easy Way to Make Your Own Decorator Pillows

Monday, June 11, 2012

You say you want sassy-looking pillows? But you don't want to invest much money in them? As always, DIY is the answer.

You're smart to include pillows in your arsenal of props if you're home staging.
Pillows can give a bland room some texture, color, and personality.

They add the finishing touch that bumps a room's style quota up a few notches.

Plump and pretty pillows can soften the look of a room, making it feel comfortable and welcoming –- important goals when you stage a home.

Bigger is better

For pillows to have impact, they need to be large. I like pillows for staging to measure at least 18 x 18 inches. I like the covers to be removable for washing or replacing with a different cover. I like them to look as luscious as the versions I see on designer's online portfolios, and in the shelter magazines. And I like them to be easy to make so I can whip them up on a whim.

But I don’t want to shell out much moolah for them.

So, here is how I make pillows for staging.

Use drapery or upholstery weight fabric for pillow covers.
Prewash the fabric to prevent shrinkage later.

To save money

Make the pillow insert yourself from recycled fabrics, like pillowcases, sheets, or towels. Bed pillows that have gone flat can be washed, taken apart, and the stuffing used to make new throw pillows. Free.

For the pillow itself, you can buy gorgeous remnants and upholstery samples at discount prices in most fabric stores. Another source of cheap fabric is second-hand stores, including the blankets, curtains, and even shirts and dresses sold there.

If you have enough fabric to cover the front of the pillow, save money by using something less expensive for the back.

If you’re an experienced sewer, you can piece together scraps of fabrics to make patchwork pillows that look stylish. Patchwork doesn’t always mean looking like grandma’s quilts.

And, my favorite money-saver is to stuff the pillow insert with junk mail or old tax returns that you’ve run through your paper shredder. This free filling holds up well, has a good loft and weight, and has no off-odors. Trust me; my dog even sleeps on a bed I made that’s stuffed with shredded paper.

Today's lesson

I’ve chosen to demonstrate the flanged pillowcase with an envelope back, because it fits all my criteria. It’s easy to make, and the flange gives it some style without the hassle of stitching piping into your seams. Besides, flanged pillows are on-trend right now.

All three of these pillows started with a simple insert, filled with shredded paper.
The two back pillows are made from white burlap, surprisingly easy to sew.

Make the insert

Decide how large your pillow will be. Make the insert a few inches smaller, because for a flanged pillow, the insert fills only the center, plump part of the pillow, the part inside the flange.

How wide the flange will be depends on the size of the pillow and the weight of the fabric. The smaller the pillow and the floppier the fabric, the narrower the flange should be, from ½ inch to 1 inch. For a large pillow or a stiff upholstery fabric, the flange can be wider, up to 3 inches. I decided on a ½-inch flange for this pillow.

Cut the fabric

For a pillow insert that measures 19 x 19 inches once finished, cut two squares 20 x 20 inches, to allow for ½ inch seams all around.

Since I was recycling an old bath towel, I just folded it in half crosswise, and trimmed it so that once the seams were sewn, it would measure 19 x 19.

Once three side seams are stitched, fill the insert with shredded paper. When you think you have stuffed it enough, add some more stuffing for good measure. Then hand stitch that last side seam.

It took almost one whole grocery bag of
shredded paper to fill my 19 x 19-inch insert.

Use a slip stitch to seam the fourth side of the insert.

Make the pillow covering

Before cutting any of your good fabric, study the fabric. Some forethought and attention to detail at the start of your project will give your pillows that custom look instead of that discount store look.

A well-made, store-bought, high-end pillow will match the design at the seams. A flanged pillow is more forgiving because the flange can hide the fact that your pattern doesn’t line up on all four sides. But, do take note if your fabric has one large design. Center this design.

Cut out the front

Cut the front piece of your pillow the size as your pillow insert cover, plus whatever measurement you want for a surrounding flange, and an allowance for seams. I made my front piece 21 x 21 inches because my insert measured 19 x 19 inches, and I wanted a 1 ½ inch flange and ½ inch for seam allowance.

The back of the pillow will be in two pieces, with an overlap in the center so that removal is easy.

I like the overlap to look centered, not off to one side of the pillow’s back. So, I make one of the two back pieces larger than the other, so it can slide under the shorter piece.

When you center the hemmed envelope edge, even the
back of your pillow is presentable, like this blue denim pillow.

I usually figure an overlap of at least four inches. There will be times when your pillow gets viewed from behind, so both sides need to look presentable. You don’t want the appearance of a pillow that has gained weight and is still wearing the same old clothes, underwear peeking out from overstretched openings. So, four inches of overlap for an average sized pillow, and even more overlap for larger pillows.

Cut out the back

First, cut the shorter back piece. Make it as long as the front piece (21 inches in my example). But make it only half the width of the front piece, plus two inches for a center hem. My first back piece measured 21 x 12 ½ inches.

Cut the longer back piece. Make it as long as the front piece (21 inches). But make it half the width of the front piece, plus 2 inches for a center hem and 4 inches for overlapping. My second back piece measured 21 x 16 ½ inches.

This is what your three pieces of fabric will look like. The front piece is
facing up, and the two back pieces are facing down.

Hem the back pieces

Hem the edges of both back pieces that will form the opening. In my example, that would be one of the edges that measures 21inches. On each of the two back pieces, I turned one edge over 1/4 inch, stitched it, then turned it again 1 3/4 inches and topstitched that. A hem this wide will lie nice and flat. Alternately, you can zig-zag or serge the first turn of the hem.

Attach front to back

With good sides together, stitch the smaller of the two back pieces to the front piece, with the hemmed edge of the back piece towards the center. Then, stitch the larger of the two back pieces to the front, overlapping the other back piece.

Joining the shorter piece to the front first means the hemmed edge will be centered.

If your fabric has a loose weave, zig zag the raw edges to prevent unraveling with use.

Trim the corners so they will be crisp and square when you turn your pillow cover right side out. Turn the cover, and press the seams flat. Finally, top stitch around the edge to make your flange. I always pin first, so I’m sure the flange will lay flat and there will be no surprise puckers when I’m machine stitching. If the flange is wider than ½ inch, marking the stitch line with a quilter's pencil makes it easy to stitch straight and even all around. On a narrow flange, you can usually eyeball as you stitch.

Press the fabric at each step of the assembling for a more finished look.

To make it easy to stuff the insert into the case, flip one side of the
envelope back, push the insert into one side, and then the other.

Some people believe pillows should be under-stuffed for a more casual or natural
look. It's up to you which style you like. Both look good with a flanged border

Variations

Stitch something sweet. Top stitch your flange by hand for a dressmaker touch. If you are a quilter, this should be a piece of cake.

Add an accent: Top stitch your flange with a contrasting thread.

Decorate with tim: Sew ribbon, rick rack, ball fringe, or other decorative edging into the edge of the flange.

Give it high style: Add buttons to the four inside corners on the front of the pillow.

Have some fun: Make oblong, and even round pillows, with flanges.

Be versatile: Choose one fabric for the front and another for the back of a pillow.

Go no sew: Substitute fusible webbing or fabric glue for stitching.

Hack the big guys: Paint an image on the front of your plain pillowcase, copying from something you've fallen in love with online.

All you need is one yard of fabric to change a regular bed pillow into a decorative
accent pillow like this. The striped pillows are made from scraps of fabric.

If your home is for sale, count on pillows to be part of on your selling team. I hope these instructions encourage you to make your own frugal decorator pillows.

Got windows? My eBook, No-Sew Curtains and Draperies to Stage Your Home is packed with illustrated tutorials for 15 different window treatments, ones I've especially designed and used for home staging.

Painting Furniture? Don't Make These Mistakes

Monday, June 04, 2012

You’ll find a gazillion tutorials all over blogland for painting furniture. I don’t want to repeat all the good advice that is out there.

So, I’m giving you my favorite pointers, based on mistakes I have seen inexperienced painters make when they tackle a DIY furniture repaint.

Mistake #1: Not planning ahead

Make a projection. Have a general idea of the amount of time you’ll need to take the project from start to finish.

Will it be a one-day affair, or do you need to let paint dry between coats (always a good idea)? Will you have to stop mid-painting to pick up your children or start dinner? Will you have to move the project out of the way before it’s dry?

Schedule it right. Pick the right times. Look for the perfect window of the day.

Are the weather and other environmental conditions just right? Painting outdoors on a very hot day means your paint will dry too fast, so that keeping a wet edge will be difficult or impossible. You’ll have lap marks and a rough surface.

I wanted to change the color of this old TV cart
and give it a fresh look with new paint.

Spray painting in hot weather means the atomized paint will dry before it hits your target, so you’ll have a powdery finish.

Painting in windy weather means you’ll have dust and other debris in your finish.

Will it rain before your paint dries? Will the paint freeze overnight before it dries?

Gather essentials. Collect what you need.

An old paintbrush makes a good duster
and a microfiber cloth makes a good tack rag.

Many projects are ruined when you don’t have the right equipment or supplies.

Do you have enough paint, and even more than you need?

Do you have the right brush(es)? A paint work bucket (not the can the paint comes in)? Paint can opener? Screwdriver to remove hardware? Sanding supplies? Tackcloth? Dropcloths? Any special solvents or other clean-up supplies? Rags?

Mistake #2: Poor prep

Prepping is to painting what foreplay is to sex: the more attention given it, the better the results.

Sand. Always sand a piece of furniture. Always. I don’t care if it is laminated faux wood. I don't care if the paint label says "sanding not necessary."

Sanding gives a surface “tooth,” something for the first layer of paint to bite into.

Sanding also removes loose dirt and other junk you don’t want to seal under fresh paint. There might be drips, runs, and brush marks from a previous, poor paint job. Sanding minimizes or eliminates these little problems that make a big difference in your results.

Sanding fixes mistakes the last painter made,
and prepares the surface for paint.

Besides cleaning and smoothing the surface, sanding can soften the sharp edges of furniture to give it a more finished, quality look.

Sanding between two new coats of paint is a good practice, as well. Sometimes the paint you are using has pieces of trash in it (especially if you have previously used the original can your paint came in as your work bucket). Sanding between coats removes these minor imperfections, and smooths the surface for a better final finish.

Clean. Always clean. If your furniture piece is old, wipe it with a cleaner to remove things like nicotine layers, grease, wax, and embedded dirt. Then, let the piece dry completely.

Prime. Always prime. Although many painting projects don’t require it, a primer coat has advantages.

A primer bonds to whatever surface you put it on, so the paint will be more durable.

A primer can fill small scratches and gaps so your piece looks more custom.

A primer gives you a blank slate so you’ll notice repairs you might want to fix.

A primer can remedy discrepancies in paint, so you can apply a water-based paint over an oil- or lacquer-based paint with no fear of it creating “fish eyes” as it dries, or peeling after it dries.

Primers are designed to dry quickly, so don't use a time crunch as an excuse for skipping your primer. Just prime!

Dust. Remove the dust you created by sanding, with a tack cloth, a duster-brush, or a microfiber cloth.

What’s the point of sanding if you don’t get the sanding dust out of there?

Don’t sweep or shake your drop cloth to put dust in the air. Move the project to a clean area, and use a dust-free drop cloth.

Get rid of the extras. Remove hardware if practical.

Casters usually come right off.
These needed cleaning.

It’s usually easier to paint furniture if you can strip it of knobs and handles. While they are off, you can clean or refinish them. I like to leave hinges in place and either tape them off, or paint carefully around them.

Mistake #3: Inefficiency

Before jumping in, consider the most sensible approach to your project.

For example, turn tables and chairs upside down, so you can paint the underbelly and insides easily. Who hasn’t painted a chair, and ended up with paint-covered arms from painting the insides of the legs last, reaching around wet paint to do it?

Move it. If possible, elevate your project to make it easier to work on. You’ll be able to see what you are doing and you’ll be more comfortable working without bending over.

Have a system. You’ll avoid wasted motions and “holidays” if you pay attention to the method you use. Paint smart. Work in a planned pattern that makes sense to you and is appropriate to the piece of furniture.

For example, if you have dresser drawers, remove them from the dresser, paint them, and place them where they won’t be in your way.

If you’re painting a bookcase, lay it flat on a table so you can walk all around it, and follow the same order for each shelf: back, sides, top, then bottom, for example.

Start your painting with the piece upside down.

Have a staging area. Keep your supplies close at hand, and when you use something, replace it in the same pocket or the same spot nearby, so you don’t waste time hunting for it when you need it again.

This way, you won’t hear yourself mumbling, “Where did I put my rag?!” or “Where's the screws?!” or "Who stole my gloves?"

Clean up. Don't save it for the next day, even if you plan to paint again tomorrow.

Schedules change, plans are forgotten, life takes over.

Cleaning up is part of being efficient, so that the next time you want to paint, you’re ready.

Whether you use a roller, brushes, a sprayer, or spray cans, leave your equipment, including paint, work bucket, drop cloths, and sanding supplies ready for your next job.

Big benefits

DIY furniture painting can rescue old, inexpensive, or favorite pieces. Even if you are not staging a home right now, knowing how to repaint a piece of furniture is a handy skill any decorator or DIYer should practice. Do a sloppy paint job, and that bargain dresser will still look like a garage sale find, but a careful paint job will upcycle it into a prize to be proud of.

Home staging counts on fewer pieces of furniture than we ordinarily live with. That means each piece has to earn its keep by adding to the style and appeal of your rooms. You can elevate even pathetic hand-me-down furniture into pieces that earn their way, just by painting them the right way.

When I cleaned the casters, I discovered they were solid copper.
I think they add just the right vintage touch to this table.

Many of these same tips for painting furniture can be applied to other DIY projects, like painting doors, lamps, or cabinets..

For more smart tips to help you stage your own home for sale, download my eBooks,

DIY Home Staging Tips to Sell Your Home Fast and For Top Dollar,

Guide to Furniture Arrangement, and

No-Sew Window Treatments to Stage Your Home.